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Post Info TOPIC: Another Setup Guide


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Another Setup Guide
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I found this article and wanted to share it.
(Keep in mind that there are several ways to do things in this Hobby and most of them work,)
Admin may not agree with all points of this type Article, but it is a sound method.
The Key is Research!
Do your homework, search the web and other resources before dropping a lot of $ into a tank.
Monty

Steps

  1. Acquire an aquarium. This guide is for tanks less than 30 gallons. Decide on the location of the aquarium in your home. This place should have lots of circulation and have zero exposure to direct sunlight. Tanks of this size can frequently be placed on a sturdy piece of furniture. You can also purchase a pre-manufactured stand which may increase the warranty on an aquarium. Also be sure to get the items in the "Things You'll Need" section.
  2. Fill the tank with water. Use RO water if available. City water works as long as you have a detoxifier. Otherwise get distilled water from the store. Be sure to leave about two to four inches at the top of the tank.
  3. Add salt in small amount while checking with the hydrometer. Continue adding salt and stirring and checking salinity until the hydrometer reads 1.022 - 1.025. With a new hydrometer you will frequently get air bubbles stuck to the needle, these will seriously throw off a reading. Tap it up and down and left and right until they float off. Once you have an appropriate salinity take a break and let the water clear up. Check it again and proceed to the next step.
  4. Put the entire unopened bag of sand into the water. Slice open one side of the bag and slide it out very gently. It is similar to the magician pulling out the table cloth, but a lot slower. If you do this properly the tank will hardly cloud at all. If you don't, you will have to wait longer for the water to clear so you can see through the aquarium. (You may use sand bought at the pet store or live sand bought from a local reef store)
  5. Test the alkalinity and calcium levels. Read the directions for the test kit they vary in methods. Alkalinity reading should be 8-12 dKH. Calcium should be at 400-500 ppm. If either tests low, add an appropriate amount of alkalinity increaser or calcium increaser.
  6. Place your rock in a way that is visually appealing to you. Keep in mind that you will need to clean the glass so leave enough room on any sides you will be cleaning, really important on the front pane. It is also advisable to stack the rock in an arch formation with many open holes and few touching regions.
  7. Assemble the filter. Place the filter in a place where it will maximize the flow in the aquarium. The middle works better than the sides. If you are using two filters place them on opposite sides but not on the edges. Read the directions thoughly before you plug them in. Make sure the filters are running properly.
  8. Put on the glass top, but leave the back plastic piece that comes with it off for now. Leaving this off allows a ventilation in the tank and keeps the temperature lower. Marine Tanks Need To Breathe.
  9. Cycle the tank and wait around for 3 weeks to a month or two for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels to zero out and the biological filters to establish.

 

Tips

  • Research! research! research! The more you know the better you will know how to deal with problems. Assuming that you have access to the internet; become a member on reef forums such as [www.reefcentral.com] or [1]
  • Fellow hobbyists are usually kind and will be glad to try and help you. However, keep in mind that some things on the internet have to be taken with a grain of salt (no pun intended).
  • You must have patience. Everything will be more stable if you are patient. Don't rush into the pet store and start buying things (or fish). Plan ahead, price things, don't take a blind dive.
  • Perform a monthly 25% water change, or several small 5% changes.
  • Many Reef Keepers do a 10% water change weekly in a heavier stocked tank.
  • Clean salt creep away from the aquarium to make it look presentable.
  • Clean glass bi-weekly with a damp towel.
  • NEVER USE ANY TYPE OF CLEANING PRODUCT ON OR INSIDE THE AQUARIUM.
  • Look for a reputable local fish store (LFS). Some may be small hole in the wall stores or large warehouses. Either way, determine: if the livestock is healthy, if the tanks look clean, are the workers knowledgeable, are the prices reasonable, ect. ect.
  • A larger tank is more costly, however, it is more stable. In other words, do not start out on a five gallon tank. (I would recommend a thirty gallon tank.)
  • Many dry goods can be purchased through online stores cheaper than at the pet store.
  • Using a Damsel fish for Cycling is "Iffy", you could be stuck with a mean, territorial fish.
  • Along those lines, don't let the LFS talk you into buying anything you don't need or want (especially if you know it is unnecessary). Many believe that a Protein Skimmer is unnecessary, tanks do better with a Foam Fractionater.
  • Coral fragments (frags) can be bought cheaper than a whole colony. They are ecologically friendly, cheaper, and if you are not sure you can take care of the coral it is better to try on a small piece.
  • You don't actually have to wait a month for bio levels,and nitrate,phosphate,and all the levels to get to were there supposed to be. You can purchase a packet of bio(bacteria,and other chemicals that support your tank)and put it in your tank. If you do, test to make sure everything is going well, and add chemicals when necessary. It will only take about a week before your tank is ready for fish. It takes about a week for a 55 gallon to be ready for fish, so it would probably take less time for anything less.

 



__________________
"Earth, our Water Planet, is the only planet in our solar system to be endowed with appreciable
quantities of liquid water.
Life, born in the water, must be at least as rare as water in the Universe, and as such must be revered, under any of it's forms,
as a Miracle."


Jacques Cousteau



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